The memory of the river Ebre

La Saberuda, our history expert, will accompany on this intense, moving journey through the sites of the Battle of the Ebre. Taking the river as your starting point, you’ll discover the different places, both near and far, that will help you to gain an overall understanding of the bloodiest episodes in the Spanish Civil War.

On a series of walks through the different villages and mountains, you’ll find out about the day-to-day life of soldiers, international brigade volunteers and local people. You’ll connect with the area’s historical memory, becoming aware of how a region with just over 50,000 inhabitants was overrun by over 200,000 soldiers, spent two years without a harvest and was completely devastated by bombardments. The conflict led to the loss of 8,000 people from the Ribera and the Terra Alta areas.

The Memory of the Ebre trip will allow you to find out in depth about an episode with international ramifications and its repercussions for the local people, breaking the silence imposed in the bleak post-war period.

ITINERARY
With Memory of the Ebre we offer a chance to find out all about this bloody episode in the Spanish Civil War at your own pace, by visiting the most significant places.

DAY 1: ARRIVAL IN LA RIBERA D’EBRE.
Arrival in Móra d’Ebre. Bed and breakfast.

DAY 2: THE REPUBLICAN REARGUARD, PREPARING FOR THE BATTLE.
We propose to begin this journey of historical memory by visiting the region where the Battle of the Ebre was prepared, starting off with a surprise operation to cross the river on the night of 25th July 1938. As you walk the paths from Darmós to the farmhouses of Mora and El Galatxo you’ll discover the international reach of the conflict too, as the rearguard was visited by Indira Gandhi and Spanish leader La Pasionaria, among others.

DAY 3: THE START OF THE BATTLE MEANS CROSSING THE RIVER.
The surprise operation to cross a river that seemed more like a sea after the fascists had opened the floodgates of the reservoirs was a total success. Even though many soldiers could not even swim, the republican engineers worked tirelessly throughout the 115 days of the battle. Walking from Miravet to La Talaia you can see the river and where the soldiers found themselves when they crossed it.

DAY 4: PÀNDOLS, THE MOUNTAINS OF HELL.
After crossing the river, the republicans’ target was the town of Gandesa. But they were unable to reach it and over the 115 days of the battle they fought hand to hand for every inch of ground, in the Pàndols and Cavalls mountains. Rough, rocky terrain where they were hit pounded by the fascist air forces. As you hike through the Vall Closa, only accessible from the north-west, you’ll come across the trenches and camps of the 15th International Brigade, made up of American volunteers.

DAY 5: THE WAR BETWEEN BROTHERS.
The Civil War was a confrontation between brothers and neighbours, who shot at each other from trench to trench. On this walk to Quatre Camins and the trenches of contour 402 you’ll find out about the fighting between republicans and the Requetés of the Tercio de Montserrat, a fascist shock corps made up entirely of Catalans. In the village of Corbera itself you’ll be able to visit the remains of the old village and the visitor centre devoted to the 115-day battle.

DAY 6: BOMBARDMENTS IN THE REAR: TOTAL WAR.
The Spanish Civil War was a modern war, which means all possible targets that could give support to the republican army were hit hard, both close to the front and in the distant towns of Reus, Tarragona and Barcelona. This total war with brutal bombing by the fascist air force, practically flattening the village of Corbera d’Ebre, was observed closely from republican general Lister’s command post at the Coll de Pins, a pass you can reach by a scenic hike from Rasquera.

DAY 7: THE BLOODY RETREAT.
When the battle ended on 16th November 1938, the republicans had to cross back over the river and begin their retreat. On a walk near Ascó along the old mule track from La Fatarella to Flix to the camp of the 15th army corps you’ll find out how nearly 200 soldiers gave their lives in a bitter, unequal struggle to cover the retreat of many of their comrades.

DAY 8: RETURN HOME.
Before leaving La Ribera, we suggest you visit the memorial at Camposines. After the Battle of the Ebre came the post-war period, exile and cruel repression.